FROM THE GARDEN

NOTHING SAYS SUMMER LIKE A SWEET, JUICY PEACH

One of the pleasures of summer lies in pondering how I will use the abundance of sweet, juicy peaches that hang heavy on the trees of the local farms. Peaches are more than a taste of summer—they are a memory of childhood. They are joyously messy; it is impossible to remain a mature adult when you sink your teeth into the flesh of a peach. The juice trickles down your cheeks and dangles on your chin as you slurp the last of the fruit from the pit. This is a magical sensory celebration indicating summer has arrived and a passage in your mind to a sweeter more innocent time.

Peaches originated in China, and they are mentioned in Chinese writing as far back as the 10th century BC. In Taoist mythology, the peach was said to be consumed by the immortals due to its mystic virtue of conferring longevity on all who ate them. The Jade Emperor and his mother Xi Wangmu, owner of the Heavenly Peach Garden, ensured the gods everlasting existence by feeding them the "peaches of immortality." The Eight Immortals were said to celebrate in heaven with an extravagant banquet called the "Pantao Hui" or the "Feast of the Peaches."

The Persians brought the peach to the Mediterranean from China, and passed it on to the Romans. Eventually, it made it's way to America via the Spanish explorers in the 16th Century, then worked its way back across the ocean to England and France. The various Native American tribes helped the peach tree traverse across our country, taking seeds along with them and planting as they traveled.

There is an art to finding and picking a ripe peach. High season is hectic and I seldom have the time to travel to hand pick all of the peaches that I would like. I usually go to my local farm stand, The Milk Pail in Water Mill, where Jen Halsey grows about five different varieties. She places them out on the table in bags, smartly presented as "ready to eat now" and "ready to eat in a few days." I usually buy at least three bags of the "ready to eat now." If you live in the city or don't have a farmstand that grows their own peaches, you need to follow a few simple rules to be rewarded with a great tasting peach. First, look for a peach that is ripe and has a yellow-and pink-streaked background color (or creamy white background for a white peach). It should have a soft, downy covering and emit a sweet, perfumed scent. Do not pay attention to areas of bright red color, as it is only a sign of direct sun exposure. Look for peaches that are "tree ripened" or "California Well Mature"—this means that the peaches have reached their maturity before being picked. Avoid peaches that have a green skin color, are cold-stored or are rock hard or mushy.

Peaches with white flesh are very sweet with little acidity, while yellow-fleshed peaches typically have a touch of acid combined with sweetness, though this differs between varieties. The low-acid, white-fleshed peach is the most popular kind in China, Japan and most of Asia, while Europeans and North Americans have historically favored the yellow-fleshed variety of the fruit.

There are thousands of different peach varieties, but they are usually classified into two categories: freestone and clingstone. Freestone peaches and nectarines have flesh that slips easily away from the pit. They tend to be larger than clingstones, with a firmer, less juicy texture, yet still sweet. Freestone peaches are excellent for canning and baking purposes. Clingstones are a bit of a pain because the fruit clings tenaciously to the pit. This type is the first to be harvested, and the flesh is yellow with bright red touches closest to the stone. The peaches have a soft texture and are juicier and sweeter—perfect for desserts. This is also the preferred variety for jellies, jams and canning. Clingstone peaches are seldom found at the local grocery store. I prefer the freestone for when I need a pristine peach for cooking, and I love the clingstone fresh from the tree and for canning my amaretto peaches. The popularity of the clingstone peach has diminished over the years, with the freestone and a new category of peaches called semi-freestone becoming the peaches of choice for most people. Semi-freestone—a new hybrid of the clingstone and freestone—are both good choices for eating and canning.

People are always surprised to find out that a nectarine comes from a cultivar group of peach that has a smooth, fuzzless skin. Several genetic studies have ascertained that nectarines are created due to a recessive gene, where a fuzzy peach skin is dominant. Nectarines have shown up many times on a peach tree. As with peaches, nectarines can be white or yellow, clingstone or freestone. Nectarines are a bit smaller and sweeter than peaches, but because of the lack of fuzz they tend to bruise easier as well.

If you are up for an adventure and have the time, there are two pick-your-own-peach farms that are on Long Island's North Fork. There is Lewin Farms in Wading River, open to peach-picking from mid-July through September, and Wickham's Fruit Farm in Cutchogue, which opens for peach picking August 20. Both offer a good variety of peaches and a great activity that allows me to burn off some of the peaches I am sure to eat during a far-too-short season.

Some of my favorite ways of preparing peaches are grilled and then drizzled with amaretto, fried in beignets, pureed into margaritas, chilled into creamy peach and almond ice cream and of course, raw from the tree. The only thing required for eating something so amazing is nothing more than a rinse under water with your mouth watering in anticipation. Check out www.hcandg.com for some of my favorite peach recipes. Buon Appetito!