FROM THE GARDEN

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A white or clear oil indicates that it is refined or not from the first pressing.

When picking an olive oil, think about what you are making and what role you want it to play in the dish. There are three distinctive categories of extra virgin olive oil:

Mild: A buttery, semi-sweet flavor that highlights broiled and grilled fish, vegetable soups, sauces without garlic, most vegetable dishes and strong cheeses. It is also a good base for salad dressings.

Fruity: Flavor and aroma are similar to mature olives. It complements grilled meat and chicken, grilled vegetables, pasta, sauces with garlic, milder cheeses, ice cream—yes, ice cream—and desserts.

Fruity-Pungent or Green: Usually made from green olives or olives turning color. A young, fresh and fruity oil often mixed with a hint of spice, it can create a ticklish sensation at the back of the throat—a preferred characteristic. It complements traditional or rustic dishes (such as bruschetta), most pasta dishes, heavier soups and bean and grain dishes.

Below, I've listed eight bottles of French and Italian extra virgin olive oil that I recently bought at Citarella and Loaves & Fishes. They offer a range of subtle nuances and flavors. There's also an oil from one of my favorite mail-order sources out of Boston for all Italian food ingredients, www.salumeriaitaliana.com:

France: Nicolas Alziari, Huile d'Olive, (Citarella); green (light pepper), buttery and fruity; similar in scent to mature green olives.

France: Al'Olivier, Huile d'Olive, Vierge Extra (Citarella); apple, grass (seen in green olives or those crushed with leaves or twigs) and hay.

Italy: La Bonta di Fiesole, First Cold Press (Loaves & Fishes); fresh (good aroma, not oxidized), fruity and buttery.

Italy: Colle di Bellavista, Olio, Extra Vergine (Salumeria Italiana); green (spicy and lightly bitter) and fresh, with a hint of hay.