FROM THE GARDEN

SUMMER'S HERE! BREAK OUT THE CLAM RAKE

I've always had these grandiose visions of digging up clams by the dozens and cooking them over a beach fire, sun setting over the ocean...you get the picture. Not that I had any idea how to do so, but, really, how difficult could it possibly be?

I started by asking as many locals as I could about their experiences clamming on the East End. I found many had favorite places that they had enjoyed since childhood; everyone had an opinion as to whether the soft shell clam or the little neck was the most delicious; and, of course, everyone had the "best" clam recipe. The first step was to get my permit at the town clerk's office and to locate a beach tidal map. I handed over my proof of residency and $10 and they handed me a laminated shellfish license, a rulebook and a shellfish gauge to measure my clams. I was ready to go! (My East Hampton permit covered me from Wainscott to Montauk. If you live anywhere from Bridgehampton to Southampton then visit Southampton's town clerk.)

Next, I needed to locate a clamming rake and basket (not as easy as it sounds). I finally found a long-handled rake with the basket attached at an endearing place named Mrs. Sam's Bait & Tackle at the beginning of Three Mile Harbor drive. There, I also picked up a small inner-tube to float my clam basket in, keeping my caught clams nearby.

I heard Napeague Bay was shallow and a good place for a beginner to start digging, so I loaded up my car and set out on a sunny day. There are two types of clams here on the East End: the hard shelled Quahog, or little neck, and the soft shelled steamer, or long neck. It's important to note that in the town of East Hampton, the taking of soft shell clams between May 1 and August 31 is illegal. (It is legal year round in Southampton.) You can dig for hard clams year round in both towns, with the deciding factor being your ability to stay in cold water for long periods of time. Hard shell clams must be at least one-inch thick. Using your shellfish gauge to measure, throw back any that pass through the opening. Soft shell clams should measure one-and-half inches in length, the measurement of the shortest side of your gauge.

At Napeague Harbor, I slipped off my shoes, lashed my basket to the inner-tube, connected it to my waist and waded out into the water. I had heard of people who clam using their feet (feeling for them with your toes, and if particularly adroit, retrieving them between first and second toes), so I waded out at low tide and "educated" my toes. I realized I do not speak the language of clam, but am now quite fluent in rock. The rake is definitely the way to go.

I gently reached for a clam with the rake and dragged it back to me. The first couple of times I raked my toes—not something I recommend, those buggers are sharp. By the tenth pull I found a clam, and after spending about two hours in the water, I had three dozen hard shells and no feeling from my knees down. I washed the clams off and put them in a bucket of water in the car. Eating those clams hours later, I felt extremely connected to the East End.

There are three things to know about clamming: it's best at low tide, between sunset and sunrise it's illegal and you can't use any device that is not operated by hand. Visit www.hcandg.com for my favorite clamming holes and some divine clam recipes.