WINE & SPIRITS

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On their vast property, a tiny ancient chapel perched on a hilltop among the vineyards was given a colorful makeover a few years back by American artists Sol LeWitt and David Tremlett. On the corner of their land stands another giant work of abstract art, a translucent glass cube by architects Luca and Marina del Abate Torino that offers a fine view across the famed Bricco Rocche vineyards. In addition, the Cerettos run the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Alba, complete with a cutting-edge chef and plates designed by contemporary artists.

Along with their bold red wines, the Cerettos are also known for an intriguing white called Blange. The wine, made from the local arneis grape and packaged in a gorgeous bottle, is crisp and juicy with the slightest effervescence and hints of pear and apple. Widely exported, it's the biggest selling white wine in Italy. It is also George Clooney's white wine of choice, according to Bruno Ceretto's daughter, Roberta, who handles public relations for the family business.

From Piedmont, I zipped along the Tuscan coast to the Tenuta di Capezzana winery, run by Count Ugo Contini Bonacossi and his children. (This aristocratic family once had one of Italy's largest privately held collections of art, most of which has since been donated to the Ufizzi Gallery in Florence.) Though the winery has only been in the family since the 1920s, wine has been produced on the property since as far back as the year 804 a.d. The enormous property, in the Carmignano wine district, stretches over hundreds of acres and includes olive groves that produce a very fine, widely exported extra-virgin olive oil. The Count, who speaks perfect English (learned from his nanny from Sussex), playfully admitted to having grafted onto his vineyards precious Chateau Lafite clones "appropriated" from his good friend, the Baron Eric de Rothschild, years ago. Although he remains somewhat involved, today the Capezzana winery is really in the hands of his children: winemaker Benedetta, viticulturalist Filippo and head of marketing Beatrice.

Fine wine and olive oil aside, it must be said that Capezzana is a wonderful vacation destination.