WINE & SPIRITS

CLIFFSNOTES ON WHAT TO DRINK THIS SUMMER

With so much great wine to choose from, it's an awesome task figuring out what new and classic bottles to explore for the summer. Last year at the start of the season, I recommended some marvelous Provence rosés, Alsace rieslings and Austrian Gruner Veltliners. Recently I scoured my tasting notes journal in search of a new crop of tempting standouts for the Hamptons table.

Take Another Look at Good Value Wines
George Duboeuf is synonymous with Beaujolais Nouveau. Along with fresh-pressed young party wines, Monsieur Duboeuf also produces some very fine wine from Burgundy's Beaujolais region. Recently, I tasted the Duboeuf portfolio of affordable reds, as the great man himself shared insights. His Jean Descombes Morgon had violet aromas and blackcurrant notes. "Floweriness is so characteristic of Beaujolais," said Duboeuf. He extolled his Domaines des Quatres Vents Fleurie as "an expressive generous wine" and his Chateau des Capitan Julienas as "complex with spice and a marked violet nose."

Duboeuf's whole line is light and bright enough to sip lightly chilled even with seafood. But for the ultimate summer seafood sipper, I suggest moving north through France into the Loire Valley. The region produces the amazing bargain Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, the ultimate match for oysters, clams and crustaceans. Muscadet is fresh and lively with mineral and citrus notes. I recommend those produced by Marquis de Goulaine and Domaine de la Quilla.

I've also been tasting some fine wines perfect for pairing with seafood. From Washington's Columbia Valley, Pacific Rim makes a beautiful, crisp riesling with citrus and jasmine notes. Their off-dry chenin blanc, behind an intriguing label picturing an Asian beauty peering clear through the bottle, features bright flavors of grapefruit and pear. And the Argentinean winery, Terrazas de los Andes, has just released a new grape variety wine Torrontes, which is also exotic with marked perfumed floral aroma of orange and rose blossoms.