WINE & SPIRITS

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I continued my wine tour with a stop at Casa Valduga's sparkling wine cellar, the largest in South America. Winery honcho Juarez Valduga is a legendary figure who never removes his straw peasant hat (except to sleep or go to church). He is also an emotional man. Actual tears came to his eyes as he explained the origin of the hat on his head. When he was just starting out 35 years ago, he walked into a bank seeking a loan while wearing that Italian immigrant hat. The hat led to ridicule instead of a bank loan. Today, a very wealthy self-made man, he's had the last laugh—and he still wears the hat.

As I continued to explore Brazil's southern wine route I was astounded to discover how many wineries are making excellent bubbly. With an output of 800,000 bottles per year, the Garibaldi Cooperative is one of the largest producers. The co-op is based in the town of Garibaldi, the heart of what is known as Brazil's land of sparkling wine.

I was also surprised by the high quality of the region's red blends. Often based on merlot, they frequently include a smaller percent of indigenous tannat, a grape found in much higher quantities across the border in Uruguay. Boutique winery Don Laurindo is a true pioneer in the use of tannat, which adds spice and depth of color. But perhaps my favorite reds were found at Salton. The enormous winery has a tank room that looks like a space station inside an airplane hangar. The exquisite cathedral-arched barrel room, with its intricate brickwork, reminded me of the cellar style of Burgundy. Over lunch with the aforementioned grap-grower serenade, I tasted two unforgettable wines: 2002 Talento, a cabernet/merlot/tannat blend with mouthwatering flavors of cherry, leather and bacon; and 2004 Desejo, a round and juicy merlot blend.

Most of these wines are on their way to the U.S. or already here. The sparklers go well with samba. The reds go well with steak and the great variety of red meats grilled Brazilian-style at one of those gargantuan all-you-can-eat churrascarias. Be the first in your area to try one.